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The good cuisine is an all time passion, especially
at the table of a monarch. Pizza and "focaccia" were a Ferdinand
IV great passion, however cheese, fruit and wine were never missing "at
the Bourbon's table" but the main course was usually a meat dish,
often personally hunted by the King. Hunting was the typical activity
of the nobles of the XVII century. It also was a passion common to all
the Bourbon generations. Charles acquired numerous lands, which were converted
to game estates and reserved them as a special branch of the Bourbon administration
called "Real Sites". Hunting in the XVIII century was functional
to the regal power symbology so much so to be almost considered a State's
function. On this subject the Commissary President of the Royal House,
Domenico Caravita wrote: "
The grave concern to govern the
subordinates forced the monarchs to resort sometime to the comfort of
the honest pleasures which lifted the spirit and reinvigorated the body
allowing to easier sustain the
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weight of governing" (G. Alisio, The Real
Sites, in Civilisation of the '700 in Naples). A variety of products were
often produced in the same Sites: cheese and other dairy products, cultivation
of mulberry trees for the production of silk worms and barley as fodder
for cows. In particular the Kings developed the raising of bovine (especially
buffaloes) and the cheese production to oppose the prestigious French
cheeses. It was in this period that from buffalo milk mozzarella assumes
its specific identity. This name derives from the manual production process
of cutting (mozzare) the mix during the workmanship. The proposed itinerary
derives from these reflections. It begins from Capriati
al Volturno; The feud of Capriati in fact, was purchased by Charles
of Bourbons and later enlarged by Ferdinand IV. It was part of an extensive
game reserve, which was developed up to the border between Campania and
Molise and included also Venafro and Ciorlano. The splendid Torcino estate
rose in the vicinity of Ciorlano. This district (painted by J.P. Hackert
in the famous "Hunting to the wild boar in Venafro" preserved
in the Royal Palace of Caserta) represented the northern limit of the
Bourbons hunting territories; in the same territories the WWF oasis of
le Mortine - Capriati al Volturno - Venafro is located.
Living the hinterland travelling in the southerly direction toward the
Domitiana coast it is possible to reach Mondragone
an ancient Roman colony called Sinuessa whose ruins are visible.
The present centre of the town is located at the foot of the Mount Petrino
on which lie the remains of the Rock of the Dragon. Today Mondragone is
a famous bathing centre, while during the Bourbon period it was an appreciated
game reserve. The Bourbons also utilised precious marbles from this territory
in the construction of the Palaces of Caserta and Portici. The historic
centre of the town along with Palazzo Falco and Palazzo Torcagnata can
boasts precious sacred constructions such as the Mother Church of S. Michele
Intra Moenia, the Convent of S. Francesco and the Church of S. Rufino.
To be remembered of course the extraordinary tradition of cheese production
principally the buffalo mozzarella, which is its maximum expression.
Still within the confines of Terra di lavoro, along the Casilina Way,
at the foot of the Mount Maggiore, we find Calvi
Risorta, the ancient Cales. There are many interesting highlights
in the territory of Calvi: the Saints Cave and those of the Forms (or
Formelle) dog in the sandstone with splendid Byzantine votive paintings;
the remains of the Castle; the Cathedral built in the XII century in Romanesque
style. In Cales there are many suggestive ruins such as the Amphitheatre,
the remains of the thermal spa and the ruins of Roman sepulchral monuments.
Dated back to the Bourbon period, instead, we find the Royal Lodge House
of the Calvi Domain; this complex ruined by time and by disinterest was
originally composed by the West Tower, the Royal Lodge House in front
of which the "Circus" was located (a semicircular space destined
to the horse races) and by an extraordinary and luxuriant game reserve.
Caiazzo is another splendid site really
appreciated by the Bourbons. Here Charles had to realise the estate of
the Fagianeria a pheasantry embellished with buildings and country hunting
houses realised by the Vanvitelli.Of all the works of the court architect
only the Bourbon Villa remains; the Villa was the fulcrum of the whole
estate but even though in state of discreet maintenance it
has lost its principal internal characteristics. Caiazzo is a charming
town dipped in a generous and suggestive nature; the historical centre
has very interesting noble buildings with the rococo façades; it
also has numerous religious edifices which include the Cathedral, the
Church of S. Francesco with its cloister (today's centre of the Town Hall);
last but not least we must remember the Longobard Castle built in the
X century but enlarged and rebuilt several times.
Beside these places selected by the Bourbons as ideal places to hunt we
propose other localities which even though present a weak "Bourbon
connection" they represent today's excellent centres of wine production.
This is an ancient tradition of Campania dating back to the first Greek
colonisation (VIII century BC) and it also was an authentic Bourbon's
passion. In fact in the Seventeen Hundreds the Bourbons created in San
Leucio an experimental Vineyard named Ventaglio (fan). In this vineyard
(today partially visible) the various vines were planted in diverse manners
to obtain the maximum wine yield.
Sant'Agata de' Goti a medieval town
located in the Regional Park of the Taburno is an excellent wine producing
centre. The following monuments are well worthy of a visit: the Cathedral
devoted to the Assunta (X century), the Alphonse Museum, the Church of
the Annunziata, the Church of the Carmine and the Church of S. Francesco
whose Convent today is the Town Hall centre and the Church of S. Menna
(XI century) which conserves the relics of the Saint. In this Samnite
town a strong handicraft tradition is still well alive particularly embroidered
laces and wrought iron workmanship. However Sant'Agata de' Goti is above
all a DOC wine producer with famous labels such as Greco di Tufo, Falanghina,
Aglianico and Piedirosso.
In the heart of the Telesina Valley rises Solopaca
a town which we also remember for the chain sustained bridge build by
the Bourbons in 1835 which crosses the Calore river and devoted to the
Queen Maria Cristina. Here viticulture has ancient origins (as testified
by the remains of a rustic villa of the I century BC) therefore, we should
not wonder if Solopaca has been one of the first wines from Campania to
obtain the DOC mark (Controlled Denomination of Origin). The passion for
wine is here celebrated every year in September. During the annual Grape
Festival thousands of people crowd the roads of the town centre to assist
in the traditional parade composed of allegorical floats entirely designed
with different coloured grapes.
This itinerary terminates in Guardia Sanframondi
a town located in northern Sannio famous for its olive oil and wine production.
The historical centre is really characteristic with its narrow streets
winding up toward the majestic Norman Castle. Guardia Sanframondi also
boasts an authentic Baroque jewel in the Church of S. Sebastiano whose
recently restored interior represents a magnificent example of the Neapolitan
Sixteen Hundreds. Guardia Sanframondi has numerous buildings of cult namely
the Church of the Annunziata and the Church of S. Rocco. According to
a secular tradition, in Guardia Sanframondi, every seven years the folklorist-religious
procession of the penitential Rites of the Assumption is held; during
this unique celebration all four Neighborhoods of the town (Croce, Portella,
Fontanella and Piazza) give rise to exciting processions attracting several
thousand visitors.
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